Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche 1998 750mL

The nose is deep and quite fine, offering up notes of black cherries, beetroot, mustard seed, incipient notes of venison, woodsmoke, coffee and a bit of sous bois. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and complex, with moderate acids, but good depth in the mid-palate, fine balance, and excellent length and grip on the moderately tannic finish. In comparison to the Dujac, the wine is just a touch four-square for Clos de la Roche, but this wine has fine grand cru depth and real sweetness to the fruit. If it only had a bit more acidity to brighten up the palate and add even more structural integrity, it would be truly outstanding. Nevertheless, this is a very strong Clos de la Roche chez Rousseau. - John Gilman, tasted (2/2004)